Argentina's Patagonia - El Calafate

Sunday:  We arrived by bus in the town of El Calafate on the Argentina side as our first base for some incredible hiking.  The town sees many tourists and has lots of shops,  inns, hostels, etc but it is not very interesting really.  It sits on a huge glacial lake that you cannot see from town but is beautiful to drive by.   We had very delicious beef here for meals too! 

We spent a day at Perito Moreno Glacier which was spectacular,  hiked along the lake and got distant views of another glacier, and took a 2nd boat ride up to a glacier.   The day was tough because it was raining or sleeting all day and by the boat ride time, we were all tired of being wet and freezing.   It has been the only all-day terrible weather so far.

Did I mention WIND? It is so windy all the time in Patagonia that sometimes it is a relief to be inside a building or a bus.  It's a harsh climate now and it is almost summer!  Winters must be rough, altho there is less wind in winter. 

DAYLIGHT is long here at 53 degrees south latitude, it gets dark after 11:00 pm and light by 5:00 am.  That is nice. 

We saw lots of guanacos roaming the plains (like llamas but smaller and so cute) and some Reyes (small ostrich-like birds).  Also some cara cara birds which are big hawks and a few condors way up high in the sky.  There are pumas but they are rarely seen.  Huge ranches (estancias) raise sheep or cattle so we saw those while driving. 

We fill our water bottles from mountain streams regularly. ... there are no large animals to contaminate the water.  Seems odd (but awesome) since we cannot drink from streams in Colorado mountains.  

Home base El Chalten

Tuesday:  The small town of El Chalten is north of El Calafate on a second huge glacial lake in the region.  This town is the end of the road and people go there to hike then turn around and go back to wherever.   The town has hotels,  hostels, restaurants,  a few shops, and a great ice cream shop!

We did two long days of hiking here which is more of Parque Los Glaciales.  Day 1 was 24k or around 13 or 14 miles to get close to a huge stone peak called Fitz Roy.  We rode a bus to start at one trail out of town and took a different trail down which ended in town   This was my favorite hike because at one point you come over a hill and these huge rock peaks are pointing to the sky with clouds whisping by.  It was magical because it was a surprise.  

It snowed for about 10 minutes and that was pretty cool but nice when it got sunny again.

The second day was 10k up to a viewpoint above treeline,  then an easy 10k down.  The view was Fitz Roy plus some thinner torres (towers) of rock that were so impressive.   From our high lookout we  could also see a glacier, some lakes, and 360 degree views,   so worth all that uphill hiking!   We saw fossils in rocks near the top from lake plants and tiny fish.  They have found dinosaur bones in the mountains too. 

Hiking down we saw this big owl sitting within 20' of us on a branch.  He watched while we took photos.  This is the largest of their 3 owls called nakuriku.  we also saw huge woidpeckers and yhis cara cara (hawk) up close.  Sweet! 

Thursday:  Now we bus back to Puerto Natales, Chile to see a cave where they found bones from a prehistoric giant sloth and to visit a penguin colony.  

My birthday!

Great day in Patagonia, Chile.  I wonder where I will be on my birthday next year.... hmmm?

The Grey Glacier.  Ice

in front is 90 feet high.  

A very long suspension bridge over a deep chasm on our hike tos the top. 

Gluten free chocolate dessert after salmon and salad dinner.  Perfect! 

Patagonia region and the W backpack route

Words can't describe the scenery on the 4 day backpack trek known as the W route.  We hiked 6 or 8 or 10 so miles per day...you just go until you see the major sights and get to the next refugio which is like a hostel with rooms for 6 or more people and bunkbeds, common bathroom,  no heat.  Price includes dinner and a simple breakfast.  

Day 1 ....the wind literally blew some of us off our feet and we had a lesson in how to squat down quickly, cover your face with your buff, and wait. while small rocks pelt yo.  crazy!  I got food poisoning on Saturday somehow - when I arrived in Punta Arenas probably.  Woke up Sunday and could hardly function.  met my group, rode to Puerto Natales and slept all day.  We started hiking the next morning and between the hills, the wind, and my backpack, I was hurting.  

Thank you DGz for making me strong and tough.  I made it to the refugio, ate a few bites that stayed down, and hiked all the way to the base of Torres del Paine.   I could not miss it!  rough day.  

Day 2 ... I felt decent and wind was not as strong,.  Made it to base of Los Cuernos!  ate a good dinner and felt so much better.  Happy days.  Scenery was amazing every day. 

Day 3 .... strong and happy to enjoy every bit of the scenery and my tour group friends.  sea kayaking to glacier was cold but worth it! 

Day 4 ...my birthday!  good weather with sun and not too much wind. hike to highest lookout above glacier,  boat ride to glacier and down thru Lake Pehoe to our bus.  Great dinner, wine, hotel and hot shower.  Fabulous W trek.  

Ski areas!

I am amazed at what people will go through to ski.  This ski area is at the top of the Andes outside of Santiago. To get there you drive up a really steep road with over 40 switch backs. The road is paved and narrow and in winter,it is one way - UP until 2 p.m. And then one way down. I saw people riding bikes on this road and just could not quit saying "how the hell are they riding this steep road?" It was tough driving! Amazing!

After switchback 40 you see the buildings for the ski area the top of yet another mountain cut with more switchbacks (above). 20 more steep switch backs and you get to ski. There are no trees on the ski slopes.... with 2 or 3 lifts and a few runs. 

Another ski town above.

ski areas and big city of Santiago

some scenery on the way down the mountain. beautiful.  In winter chains are required and rented from a large station on the road,  if you don't chain up, you don't go on.  Drop off chains as you drive down.

You can hang out on the patio and watch the skiiers in winter. 

Parks, fitness, flowers...

Santiago has parks everywhere!  Parque Forestal is the largest and follows the main highways downtown along the Rio Mapoche for miles and miles.  It is long and narrow with thousands of trees, flowers, benches, and wide paths for walking and riding bicycles.  In one of my first posts I put pictures from Parque Bicentenario, which connects with Parque Forestal and is smaller but really beautiful with swans and exotic birds.

Every neighborhood has a local park with swings and more for kids years agoith workout machines for everyone!  These machines are permanently placed and they use your body weight for resistance so there are no weight stacks.  One I like a lot is a rowing machine.  I sit on the bench and when I row, I lift my own body weight.  It´s hard!  These machines are used often by young and old and I can always walk and find a park with workout equipment nearby.  It is a new campaign within yhe last few years to get fitness machines in every park. 

Also, many fitness classes with trainers are held in the parks. 
They have the same bike share program as Boulder and many places in the world, except their bikes are orange.  

Since I´ve been here I´ve seen so many athletic events.  Last weekend was a 10K on Sunday when we were riding bikes.  That Sunday there was also a hill run (that really steep hill up to the ski area).  It started in Santiago and had 3 distances to run up - the longest was 33K, about 19 or 20 miles.  There are running clubs, riding clubs, and many sports shops.

They also have an obesity problem here.  I´ve seen many overweight people in the city.  Every corner has a vendor selling sweets, nuts, and pastries and pastry shops are everywhere, so I am not surprised.  The news had a report about it one night and I don´t know what they were saying but I got the word - obesa.

My Chilean spanish teacher says Chile has all the same problems as the U.S. because their role model is us.  Kind of sad....

Flowering trees are everywhere!   The most abundant and beautiful are the Jacaranda which are covered in purple flowers for weeks.  No photo but will post one later. 

I have enjoyed the big city very much and have found it easy to get around.  I´m leaving on Saturday for Patagonia trek!  - a big change from Santiago and it´s heat.  Looking forward to it although my trip mates will all speak English and I need to continue practicing Spanish.  But I´ll manage.  :-)

Claudia's house

Some pics from Claudia's house....

I am so lucky to have found this living situation.   There are 4 renters at the house and I have so many opportunities to speak Spanish at home.  Plus my room is big enough with lots of light. .it is perfect.  

I like the two little dogs who are puppies.   They are great fun. 
The male, Zombie, is wild and crazy and the female, Emma, is just sweet.  I rescue her from Zombie attacks sometimes.in the picture of Claudia and her Patricio, he is holding 2 of the old dogs, including the one on the right with Tina Turner hair. 

There are neighborhoods in Santiago, but also many apartments and condos in tall buildings.  All living areas are behind walls and with locked gates. Our house has many floor to ceiling windows and metal grates that roll up and down.  Mine is partway down in the photos.  One picture shows the second floor of the house and the vines growing on the fence around the house.  Violence is rare here but theft is very common.  Everyone I've met has had their locked bicycle stolen.  Every store has an employee who hangs out by the door and watches for theft.

I'm including a few pics of Santiago.   Sunsets are often red and amazing.  The mountains on 3 sides of the city are spectacular.