Goodbye Africa

As rafiki yangu Ann wrote to me, this has been a "bad-ass" adventure.  It ends today and I am sad to leave but what great memories and new friends I have!

I highly recommend Kenya and Tanzania ,  Zanzibar,  and Mama Rahma's house to anyone who can afford the airfare here.  Although I have many more places on my bucket list, I will return to Africa if possible. 

Photos: the guys who sit in front of the Zanlink building where I can use free internet.  We talked today in Swahili and sometimes used Google translate when I didn't understand.  

Some photos from my walk around town this morning. 

Return home starts Sunday

Today, Saturday, I leave Abuso Inn in Stone Town to walk to Mama Rahma's home for one more night and it has rained buckets all morning!  It is just after noon and it has slowed way down and I can see some blue sky.  Yeah!

I would like to enjoy my 1.5 more warm and sunny days here of walking around and sitting by the Indian ocean.  I have to be at the Zanzibar airport tomorrow by 2:30 pm and then about 32 hours of getting to Denver will start.

There is a 9 hour time difference between here and Denver also. I will be all mixed up for a while when I get home!

After Tuesday I will have my cell phone and may be awake during normal Denver hours!?!   I hope to hear from all my friends, to catch up and to help you if you had flood damage and could use help.

I hope to take photos today at Mama Rahma's and post again but may not because I don't know where I will get to the internet again.  Goodbyes are too hard and I have had many of them and they don't get easier. 

I will miss the many food places with ocean views where I go in the afternoon to drink a coca cola and study Swahili (photo). And many people,  of course. 

But I look forward to the hello part of returning home!

Around the island

The pictures:

Ruins of the Old Fort in downtown Zanzibar town. Includes the site of a former slave market. 

Kwenda beach in north part of island - every vista looked like paradise.  Absolute ly beautiful!  But, it was so hot that I stayed in the shade all day except to take a couple walks on the beach. 

Red colobus monkeys in the Jozani Rainforest in the east part of the island.  the red colobus are pretty but not as big or as showy as the black colobus.  That rainforest is protected now. Most of the rest of the island's rainforest has been cut down for a long time. I also went to a turtle sanctuary and a mangrove nearby.  Good stuff!

A view of the Zanzibar harbor. 

Mama Rahma's kitchen

Making fish sticks for a catering order. Or "Fishy sticks" as they call them.   the main kitchen is outside on a concrete slab. It has a cloth cover over it. All preparations and cooking are done here. 

You see the coal fire with the pan of oil on it for frying in the third picture. To the right is a bag of charcoal with a cat sleeping on it. Lots of cats arond and so many flies. When a tray of sticks is made and ready to fry, it is covered with net or newspaper.

 

Pic 1 & 2: Mama Rahma forms the fish mixture on the stick and then dips in egg then coats in crust mix for frying.  

Pic 4: sometime 3 or 4 women are working on the food order.  Everyone sits on the mat on the cement floor, chats, and gets it done efficiently.  

She had a big order every day that I was there.  Sometimes fishy sticks, cakes, samosas, etc. She is a ball of fire! 

Zanzibar wedding

The evening was very interesting.  I did not know this evening event was only for women or that we would all sit on the floor the entire time. Unfortunately, my skirt was mostly calf length so I used the scarf to cover my legs while sitting rather than cover my head.

As we walked into the hall, we removed shoes, received a splash of something on our hands and a bag of food, including baked goods, a bottle of water, and a can of pop.

The women were dressed to the nines! Lots of sequins and jewels on dresses and head scarfs. Lots of makeup, bright eye shadows,  liner, etc. I have never in my life been as glamorous as any one of them. They really know how to get beautiful.  Sitting on the floor for 2 hours is hard for me- was wishing my skirt was long!

There was almost 2 hours of music - 8 men dancing, 4 men singing Arabic type songs, and many of the ladies swayed to the music, standing near the men. All guests knew the words to the songs.  Music was upbeat and good.

Then the "bridesmaids" walked thru us to pass out grilled chicken on a stick (1 each) and then a plastic cup of ice cream. Finally the music stopped and all eyes went to the entryway.  The attendants came first, then the bride. Wow! Amazing dress, hair, and makeup.  She went to the stage to pose for pictures and about half the guests left immediately- strange to me.

About 10 minutes later, the groom entered and joined her. More posing for pics. Then it was over and we left.  I never quite knew what would happen next, when it would end, etc. I wondered which person was the bride until the end when she walked in and the guests left.  It was a nice surprise to see the groom enter!

Spice tour, snorkeling and Prison Island

On Saturday my house dad, Hafid, took me to see Abdul, who took me to a spice farm for a tour. I was the only tourist there so it was relaxed. I saw many plants,  including cinnamon,  vanilla,  pepper,  cloves,  nutmeg,  oranges,  bananas,  pineapple,  coconut, grapefruit, and more.

The farm is small, 6 people work there. They all carry sharp knives and they know every plant well. How to harvest,  what parts to use, and medicinal properties of every one. They are totally in tune with nature. 

A young boy kept weaving things for me from leaves, including a ring, a bracelet,  a crown, a necklace,  and a basket.

At the end, we sampled teas and ate fruit.

I had another tour today on a boat. We sailed for about 30 minutes to Prison Island.  The water is blue-green and perfectly clear. We walked thru the old prison that is now a hotel and it was interesting. 

The highlight was the snorkeling on the reef just off the island.  My two guides stayed on the boat so I snorkeled alone. It was so amazing,  and this was one time I wished for a friend to share the experience with.  I hope I can get on the water again. 

Pictures: our boat- sailed there, motored back.
Prison island- never used as a prison
Giant land turtles in sanctuary on island

More pics

Kids playing in the dirt at the entry to a house next to my meal house where the 2 guys stay. There are kids and lots of people on the paths and dirt streets at all hours.

The  Kiswandui house where Rahma cooks and I eat meals. Close to walk to town and beach from here. I stay at the Kukoni house which is new and beautiful but is a 8 minute drive from town.  Lots of dirt, rocks, chickens,  kids,  and activity all the time.

From the roof of Kukoni house where I did laundry- looking down on a woman cooking bananas (in front of her) and boiling fish (to her right) this morning.  The area must be the kitchen.  The rest of the house had a metal roof.

Another pic from the roof. Girls and kids sit on the back if motorcycles and bicycles sideways and they share the road with cars, trucks,  carts, walkers, etc. The street traffic just can't be put into words. So crazy!

Scenes from Zanzibar stone town.

The old part of Zanzibar town is very old and has Arab influence in all buildings.  It is known for the many intricately carved wood doors dating back to the times of the slave trade here.

Pictures:

A tower from the old wall of the original city.

One street on my walk to town.

Scenes from the market on my way to school. It goes on forever and includes fruit, veggies, fish, dates, spices, household products, shoes, everything. It is huge and a maze. There's another across the street and I wandered it with Juliett who is an American here studying Swahili.  Girls went shopping in the scarf and clothing district!

My family in Zanzibar

Mama Rahma. She caters, so cooks every day and makes a good living. She drives, can really go on a tirade at someone,  although I don't know what she says. She wears sweats and t-shirts under the robes.  Quick to smile and wants to know why I am nit staying longer. She is wonderful.  So is her husband who I have only seen twice but he is very kind.

Amal will be 7 this month. She is out-going  and loves everyone who comes in the house. And there are always customers and neighbors coming and going.

I did laundry in a washer that is on the roof of the flat. Then hung them in the line overnight to dry. A treat to not wash by hand!

Classmates,  Max and ? In the hall of the class area. For the break time, they put a mat on the floor, serve drinks and snacks on a tray (instant coffee, chai, potato balls with meat inside,  and rice bread.  Any area can instantlybecome a break room! We just ignore all the tiny ants all over the floor.  It works. Neither of these friends will be back for classes next week. But they both return later.

Friday in dry and warm Zanzibar

Friday,
 I've seen some email about the rain in Boulder County and flooding or possibility of floods. Sounds dangerous for some folks and I wonder how bad it is in Lyons.  Soon I will go get a wireless connection and I will find out more. Meanwhile,  I hope my friends and their families are all safe and dry. 

My house mom is going to a wedding on Saturday and she asked if I want to go. Yes! Sounds very interesting,  So after class I went to a market and haggled for a "skirti" - some words are easy! .  Yes, I need a skirt to wear and Mama Rahma will fix me up with a scarf or two. I hope I can post some photos.

 Just ate lunch. Rice, chicken, sauce, salad of tomatoes,  carrots,  onions,  and cabbage at every meal and it is fresh and good.   The two guys here are watching soccer.  They speak some English and that is helpful.  I took their photo and then they took some photos.  Nice guys, Baraka and Hamed.

Other photos: young people fill this park that I walk thru daily to study and socialize. 

A picture on a main street outside of the old town near the park , my classes, the huge outdoor market. I didn't capture the busy-ness that is here. 

 I think I am going to a different big outdoor market with Mama Rahma soon but not positive. She doesn't speak much English.   If not, I will walk to the beach and find a nice place for a cold drink and do some writing or studying.  

It is Friday, Muslim holy day so many men are wearing the one piece outfit that is a plain dress to the floor.  The women wear sequins and fancy robes and scarves all the time, or just simple black robe with scarf. They are eye-catching and beautiful but it all looks so hot. 

Hakuna matata and hamna shida (same). It's all good.

Tuesday in Zanzibar

With my new friend,  Matilda, from Paris. We met at the coffee shop looking at the ocean.  Luckily,  she speaks English quite well. In chatting, we found out we both did Kilimanjaro.  She did a different route but we both made it to Uhuru Peak!

  Then we walked around town together and enjoyed the sights. She leaves tomorrow.   We also chatted with a young woman from Australia who started in Kenya and has extended her vacation for 4 months!  Lucky her.

It is nicer to walk in town with a friend because so many people want to sell you something or have you book a tour with them. There are many tourists here so they do move on to someone else if you show no interest. 

Nina jifunza kuongea kiswahili. I am learning to speak kiswahili. 

In beautiful Zanzibar town

I arrived on Zanzibar island off the Tanzania coast yesterday and my host family found me, took me home, fed me, and gave me a beautiful bedroom in their very beautiful home! I am ver happily surprised by my lovely accommodations!

One of the students showed me how to walk to the coast and the very old town yesterday and he showed me the evening market and lots of amazingthings here. There is more to see but I am very happy to be here.

I started the language lessons today. I am learning with a young man who has lived all over the world who also started today. The 4 hours went fast. Love the language.  I don't know if or how I will use it but I am enjoying learning. 

Now I am sitting in a shady spot using free internet. Next I will find some ice coffee by the beach and practice what we learned today in class.

My family is wonderful and the helper cooks us 3 meals per day.  So glad I stayed! 
Hakuna matata. 

Pics:  my room

Others sitting on the wall using internet.  

Flying to Zanzibar island - extending

I've had a great time practicing Swahili with anyone who will talk to me.  Everytime I say something in Swahili, people laugh,and then we develop a relationship and have so much fun!  One of my best teachers was Veronica, below. 

I also learned a lot from our safari drivers, Yusuf and Leaky, and from the employees at the Kenya Comfort Hotel in Nairobi.  Everyone is eager to teach me a word or a phrase.

I don't want to return home after a bad end to the safari trip - I want to leave Africa after a good experience so I can bring happy memories home.  So I am going to Zanzibar island in Tanzania to study kiswahili (the language) for a couple hours each morning, and to do a home stay with a Tanzanian family.

What will I do with Swahili?  I don't know, but I love learning it and the lessons and homestay are no more expensive than staying in a hotel.  And I will likely meet more nice people either teaching or learning kiswahili.  And maybe an opportunity to use it will come up - maybe next time I'm in east Africa.

Veronica, me, and Patrick

Our fabulous drivers for 10 days, Yusuf and Leaky.  Great guys.

showing the guys at the Kenya Comfort my tablet and all it can do.

Back in Nairobi.- visits with friends

Amos and baby Adriel, Mary Ann, me, and sister-in-law Connie at Amos's flat

The girls on the lanai - me wit Zena, Mary Ann's sister, sister=in=law, Adriel, and Mary Ann.

Cooking lunch in the kitchen!  We made stew, mashed potatoes, and rice together.  It was a great xperience and the food was delicious.  I mashed the potatoes by hand with a wooden spoon.  Ground the garlic and ginger with a mortar and pestel.  What you see in the picture is the kitchen with two burner gas-fueled stove.  You can see the handle of the refrigerator and I'm against the wall taking the picture. Mary Ann makes it all work!

My friend Paul who is working in Nairobi and hopes to get a better job with his Finance degree.  We had breakfast and chai while we visited.  He is a motivated and kind young man.

Paul at the garden across from my Kenya Comfort hotel in Nairobi.

End of safari

 

 

Two beautiful young male lions - about 20 feet from our vehicle.

Lion in a tree.  We saw leopards laying like this too.

One of the tents we stayed in.  The tent lodges are beautiful and you don't really realize the sides are canvas because they are so nice.  They let a lot of air in and you can hear animal sounds all night.  Cool!

We saw 10 or 12 lions moving from the base of one tree to another and some of the young males we so skinny!  This guy is walking right past the back of our Jeep.  We all hoped this pride was successful in getting food soon.  Now is the end of the dry season and food is scarce.

The best folks I could have met! Deb, my roommate on the trip, and Tom, who saved my life in more ways than just the Heimlich.

Something strange happened on Day 10 of the safari trip with Overseas Adventure Travel.  The tour guide pulled me aside and personally attacked me - saying I did not respect him or OAT and I was causing trouble in the group. Since I had been having a fine trip and got along with everyone, this was a huge shock!  He even told me that he decided he was sending me home from the trip.

Needless to say, this was distressing, shocking, and totally out of the blue and I decided the guy is whacked out and I was a bit afraid of him. Let's just call him a control freak, bully, and crazy person.  My wonderful friends, Deb and Tom, confronted him the next day (to support me) and the crazy tour leader did not back down.  Deb and Tom told him they would not allow him to send me home and since I  never gave him an opportunity to talk to me again, I don't know what he thought, but I didn't go home. 

Might I say here that I did nothing to deserve his wrath except that I got along fine with everyone and didn't give him as much attention as I suspect he wanted. Being stuck in the Serengeti, I ignored him for 7 days, focused on the animals and my friends, and made the best of a stressful situation.  It's still really difficult to write about because I've never encountered aything like it.

Thank God for Deb, Tom, and the other good people (who didn't know the story but were just wonderful to hang around).  Now I want to make a good memory before I go home so I plan to extend my trip.

I have emailed and called OAT and they will hear more from me, but meanwhile, I'm so glad to be away from that crazy tour leader.  On to another adventure that will include NICE people.  I'm letting that memory fade....