Wednesday, December 17, 2014

Mendoza, Argentina

Mendoza is a fairly large city just 5 hours from Santiago, across the border in Argentina.  To get there you drive through the Cordierra de los Andes.  The scenery is spectacular following a river much of the time and with every color you can think of in the rugged mountains.  Much of the drive is above treeline but the road is wide and well-maintained and the driving is easy. 

We stopped in a cute small town called Uspallata on the way for parilla (fire-grilled meats).  I tried blood sausage (morizilla) and sausage (chorizo) and it all tastes good. The train that connected Argentina and Chile no longer runs but you can see the tracks, trestles, and tunnels it went through for the entire trip.

Mendoza is home to great leather products, great beef for eating, and so many wineries with grape vines growing for miles and miles around the city.  The main downtown has trees lining every commercial street, which is odd for a bustling city.  There is one main plaza with a huge fountain and hundreds of trees and benches, vendors, and people entertaining for money.  In other locations are 4 more smaller plazas and there is a main pedestrian shopping area (like Pearl St. mall) that goes for many blocks.

Tourists from all over the world and from neighboring countries come here.  I heard some English here and many  other languages. Italians settled here and you can esily find pizza, homemade pasta and gelato   It´s an easy city for travelers with so much going on and tons of people out walking.  Nearby is Maipu, a small town where you can visit many of the older wineries.  Mendoza and Maipu are hot in the summer and I felt it.  It does not cool down at night either.

We rented bikes in Maipu (as did at least 50 other tourists) and rode along the Ciclovia (Bike lane) on the main street to various vineyards for tours.  At the Orange Bike rental, the woman owner went over each vineyard on a map, what it costs and what you get, so it was very easy.  Each time we stopped at a vineyard we´d see lots of bikes parked (other people doing the same thing), and sometimes we saw the same people at each stop.  We did 2 tours, ate a good lunch, visited an olive farm, and I had a Pepsi at a beer garden that makes it own craft beer.  I was bummed that I could not try their beer (since it has wheat and is not gluten free).

In Mendoza is a huge park called Parque Independencia and a large hill called Cerro Gloria.  At the top of the hill is a huge statue celebrating Argentina´s independence.  In the park in the evening were tons of people biking, running, roller blading, picnicking, and strolling.  I saw so many varieties of trees and flowers and I wanted to run except it was way too hot for me.  Another great day of seeing new things!




A trek up Mt. Aconcagua

The Patagonia tour is done and I am back in Santiago.  But Mt. Aconcagua is only a couple hour drive northeast into the Andes, so a friend and I drove there and I got to hike on the highest mountain in the Americas!

The drives in the mountains are like our Colorado mountain drives only steeper and with more switchbacks (caracoles) that are sharp.  I´m amazed at the good roads (in summer) and infrastructure in the country.  We stopped at another ski resort called Portillo on the way to Aconcagua and it was very similar to the one just outside of Santiago. (The first 3 photos are the ski area.)

This one had a huge glacial lake very close to the lodge(Laguna del Inca) and the slopes so it was really beautiful.  All the slopes are above tree line and now they are just brown dirt but you can see the lifts.  If there is too much snow, the road may close, but they have plows to keep it open.  Before they close it they will plow one lane open and then people drive uphill until 1:00 and only downhill after that.

We had to get a permit to hike on Aconcagua and it cost under $20 for the day.  (gringos pay more). They maintain tight control which was nice to see.  They give you a bag for trash with your number on it and you must return it when you are done hiking or you get fined.  If you stay overnight you must prove that you have contracted with a company for toilet facilities or you can´t go up.

The hiking is uphill but it was rarely very steep.  The trail is big rocks and lots of dust.  The wind was raging on the lower half (just like in Patagonia).  After about 6 miles we got to the first base camp called Confluencia.   There are many permanent tents there and you check in again with a ranger before going back down to the National Park Headquarters.   You can stay overnight at Confluencia then hike another 6 miles up to Camp Plaza Francia, where you can see the glacier on Aconcagua and there´s a geat view.  After that it is technical and difficult so hikers usually stop there.

Great to hike up South America´s highest mountain (which is covered by a glacier so snow all year long at the top) and so cool to drive through the Andes.  They are magnificent and beautiful in many different ways. We saw 3 mule trains coming down.  They are hired to carry people's gear and they were very frisky.

Finally, we stopped at a place with thermals that the Incas used.(Puente del Inca)...so amazing.  (the photo may be sideways).  A hotel with thermal baths for health was built there around 1900 by Europeans and now you just see the ruins if it.  A large stone arch was created by the river that the hot springs flow into and it is an amazing physical feature (puente means bridge) . 

Ski area
Laguna del Inca lake at ski area is glacial and an amazing blue.
I am holding my hat so it does blow off on hike up Aconcagua.




Friday, December 12, 2014

Argentina's Patagonia - El Calafate

Sunday:  We arrived by bus in the town of El Calafate on the Argentina side as our first base for some incredible hiking.  The town sees many tourists and has lots of shops,  inns, hostels, etc but it is not very interesting really.  It sits on a huge glacial lake that you cannot see from town but is beautiful to drive by.   We had very delicious beef here for meals too! 

We spent a day at Perito Moreno Glacier which was spectacular,  hiked along the lake and got distant views of another glacier, and took a 2nd boat ride up to a glacier.   The day was tough because it was raining or sleeting all day and by the boat ride time, we were all tired of being wet and freezing.   It has been the only all-day terrible weather so far.

Did I mention WIND? It is so windy all the time in Patagonia that sometimes it is a relief to be inside a building or a bus.  It's a harsh climate now and it is almost summer!  Winters must be rough, altho there is less wind in winter. 

DAYLIGHT is long here at 53 degrees south latitude, it gets dark after 11:00 pm and light by 5:00 am.  That is nice. 

We saw lots of guanacos roaming the plains (like llamas but smaller and so cute) and some Reyes (small ostrich-like birds).  Also some cara cara birds which are big hawks and a few condors way up high in the sky.  There are pumas but they are rarely seen.  Huge ranches (estancias) raise sheep or cattle so we saw those while driving. 

We fill our water bottles from mountain streams regularly. ... there are no large animals to contaminate the water.  Seems odd (but awesome) since we cannot drink from streams in Colorado mountains.  

Home base El Chalten

Tuesday:  The small town of El Chalten is north of El Calafate on a second huge glacial lake in the region.  This town is the end of the road and people go there to hike then turn around and go back to wherever.   The town has hotels,  hostels, restaurants,  a few shops, and a great ice cream shop!

We did two long days of hiking here which is more of Parque Los Glaciales.  Day 1 was 24k or around 13 or 14 miles to get close to a huge stone peak called Fitz Roy.  We rode a bus to start at one trail out of town and took a different trail down which ended in town   This was my favorite hike because at one point you come over a hill and these huge rock peaks are pointing to the sky with clouds whisping by.  It was magical because it was a surprise.  

It snowed for about 10 minutes and that was pretty cool but nice when it got sunny again.

The second day was 10k up to a viewpoint above treeline,  then an easy 10k down.  The view was Fitz Roy plus some thinner torres (towers) of rock that were so impressive.   From our high lookout we  could also see a glacier, some lakes, and 360 degree views,   so worth all that uphill hiking!   We saw fossils in rocks near the top from lake plants and tiny fish.  They have found dinosaur bones in the mountains too. 

Hiking down we saw this big owl sitting within 20' of us on a branch.  He watched while we took photos.  This is the largest of their 3 owls called nakuriku.  we also saw huge woidpeckers and yhis cara cara (hawk) up close.  Sweet! 

Thursday:  Now we bus back to Puerto Natales, Chile to see a cave where they found bones from a prehistoric giant sloth and to visit a penguin colony.  

Sunday, December 7, 2014

My birthday!

Great day in Patagonia, Chile.  I wonder where I will be on my birthday next year.... hmmm?

The Grey Glacier.  Ice
in front is 90 feet high.  

A very long suspension bridge over a deep chasm on our hike tos the top. 
Gluten free chocolate dessert after salmon and salad dinner.  Perfect! 

Patagonia region and the W backpack route

Words can't describe the scenery on the 4 day backpack trek known as the W route.  We hiked 6 or 8 or 10 so miles per day...you just go until you see the major sights and get to the next refugio which is like a hostel with rooms for 6 or more people and bunkbeds, common bathroom,  no heat.  Price includes dinner and a simple breakfast.  


Day 1 ....the wind literally blew some of us off our feet and we had a lesson in how to squat down quickly, cover your face with your buff, and wait. while small rocks pelt yo.  crazy!  I got food poisoning on Saturday somehow - when I arrived in Punta Arenas probably.  Woke up Sunday and could hardly function.  met my group, rode to Puerto Natales and slept all day.  We started hiking the next morning and between the hills, the wind, and my backpack, I was hurting.  

Thank you DGz for making me strong and tough.  I made it to the refugio, ate a few bites that stayed down, and hiked all the way to the base of Torres del Paine.   I could not miss it!  rough day.  

Day 2 ... I felt decent and wind was not as strong,.  Made it to base of Los Cuernos!  ate a good dinner and felt so much better.  Happy days.  Scenery was amazing every day. 

Day 3 .... strong and happy to enjoy every bit of the scenery and my tour group friends.  sea kayaking to glacier was cold but worth it! 

Day 4 ...my birthday!  good weather with sun and not too much wind. hike to highest lookout above glacier,  boat ride to glacier and down thru Lake Pehoe to our bus.  Great dinner, wine, hotel and hot shower.  Fabulous W trek.  

Saturday, November 29, 2014

Ski areas!

I am amazed at what people will go through to ski.  This ski area is at the top of the Andes outside of Santiago. To get there you drive up a really steep road with over 40 switch backs. The road is paved and narrow and in winter,it is one way - UP until 2 p.m. And then one way down. I saw people riding bikes on this road and just could not quit saying "how the hell are they riding this steep road?" It was tough driving! Amazing!



After switchback 40 you see the buildings for the ski area the top of yet another mountain cut with more switchbacks (above). 20 more steep switch backs and you get to ski. There are no trees on the ski slopes.... with 2 or 3 lifts and a few runs. 
Another ski town above.
ski areas and big city of Santiago

some scenery on the way down the mountain. beautiful.  In winter chains are required and rented from a large station on the road,  if you don't chain up, you don't go on.  Drop off chains as you drive down.
You can hang out on the patio and watch the skiiers in winter.